What size rims??

the biggest you can legally have is a 17'.. but then you'd have to put a 35 tire on, which would be like putting a rubber band on it, not to mention you would never end up paying anything but an arm and a leg for it.

I suggest 16', thats 2' bigger then stock, a 50-55 tire (50 ideally for slightly more then a 1% diameter difference)
205/16/50

16x7 fits, try not to get a 16x6.5 or you won't be able to squeeze on nice wide tires, speaking of which at most you want to put on a 16x7 is a 215, but 205 is way more common that size and more practical without it bulging.

you're offset is 40 exactly. I have a heard of 38, but I am unsure it would fit without some "adjustments"
few mag/rim brands do 40, the 2004 civic fits 40x100 (up to 45) aswell so thats a good start to check out what people have on...
when shopping, you'll find - surprise, surprise- only japanese/euro brands carry 40 offset rims... enkei and
König are probably the largest carrier of mags with that offset.... as for lowering your car

for rubber: nitto/toyo/hankook are really your only real option. NEVER EVER cheap on the rubber, rims are just for show. rubber is the real deal. Nitto NEO GENS are recommmended for you. check them out. some other warming tires are from toyo but that are alot more expensive... but you get what you pay for. Never go for nexen or shit like that. Don't buy anything at all if you can't afford good rubber unless you just want to look good with no bite.

don't use whiteline garbage, or any other such crap like that.

for suspension you can safely lower it 25-30mm on the stock struts. of course you'll want them stiff. 400/150 is what Nissan officially used on their rally car, but thats a little bit over the top.
Make sure the rear is no less then 150, and the front anything greater (car is very front-end heavy) if you want the car balanced.

If you're doing any tinkering with the suspension what-so-ever then you will need a Camber & caster kit, both front and rear. That, along with your cars toe adjusted, should be a great little corning demon.... without your wheels bending in or out like 90% of people who do anything with the suspen.

great camber/caster kits I have found are from K-mac, an aussie custom part company. I have personally have had them custom craft my suspension ... mmm chromium grade springs. my entire set-up minus struts weighs only a mere 13.5 kg... that is 4x less then stock. http://www.k-mac.com.au/ is a link to the site, but keep in mind there is other springs out there - this is only my personal choice.... as for a camber kit, well k-mac then really is your only answer unless you are going to custom fabricate them yourself.

On the topic of brakes, I suggest just rotating the drums for now as they are often chewed up - and go to stuff you need to do right away.

Do a full fluid change.

the car takes 10-40 semi or full synthetic. Royal purple ONLY. end of story. The difference between full or semi synthetic is that although full is much more nice on the car, it burns up alot quicker under high temperatures, where as semi does not, but is also not as good on the car. full is better if you drive is easy. ... for your tranny, transer case and both front and back diff. it takes 70-90w for it all.

you're looking at about 351.92 cents from the "great Canadian oil change" shop... sounds pricey, but that is actually only 20-30 dollars more then doing it yourself... and you won't have to do it again in your cars lifetime(70-90w) unless it came with 0 km.

Thermostat! winter is coming, but there is no point of changing your radiator fluid without a new thermostat.

Ignition wires, distributor cap - wiring degrades quick, in-fact Nissan is notorious for the least best wiring in all of the Japanese market.

spark plugs! spark plugs! only get NGK. make sure the heat level is 7! not 6! the motor runs VERY hot. so thats a 7 with a 0.8mm gap.. make sure to gap it, it's very important. If you are running like a 1.3bar boost.. then run 9 at 1. but that is ridiculous for a 17 year old car. treat her nice. 7 @ 0.8
Since it's a turbo-charged car it takes no less then plat plugs, iridium is okay too.

If you insist on brakes right away, I suggest AP racing.. . you'll find most actual rally cars use them, not to mention they are most compatible.

Some other quick tips: Chevron supreme 94oct only, unless you're running down to the states to buy some VP race gas for the track.
FUEL ADDITIVES are inconsistent, as it directly reacts with your current fuels octane (which is never the same).

Buy a turbo timer (hks makes good ones) they are about 400$. If you can't do that, then it is imperative, as with all turbo-charged cars, that you leave your car idling for about 3-5 minutes after spooling the turbo hard, this gives it time to "spool" down. Turbo's run at 20,000 rpm average. If you have ever heard of a "fried" turbo... it literally means the flan blades have melted.
bottom line, after a hard run - let your call idle and cool down slowly.

Fuel filter - I don't think I need to give an explanation for this one... just do it.

anyways i'm tired, hope this helped.

For the least amount of stress on the gearbox go with a 15 inch wheel

ok, I looked at your car on tyee website, it seem pretty clean and its low km so hopefully your fuel lines arent all bad cuz that is the part that sucks the most.

I noticed that your car has some buttongs that are not stock on the right side of the steering and some wires on the engine bay to feed power to something by the driver cluster. Surprise surprise? Oh, the intake is stock, tyee descriptions are as bad as the auction house sheet in jdm language.

you can see the switch im talking about in this picture.

[img]http://tyeeimports.com/images/!!!!!!!!!2221%20007.jpg[/img]

I was lucky, all my fluids came 70-80% new in the car, even the oil. I still changed everything though. I could swear my car was lady driven.... anyways

for parts, grab a fuel filter from lordco, they have some of the part numbers on their data base (this site has the part number listings) ignition wires... might as well get them from nissan since they are only 80$ and take 1-2days tops to have them in. Everything else you can get wherever you please - you'll find most of the parts here in north american, as the sr20 was a very common motor a while back, and the other filters/hoses are the same as the north american trucks used here =) it's great to see a lordco guy baffled over part numbers.

On average you should be getting no less then 330+ KM per tank. that's taking into consideration that your not exactly driving the speed limit. Mine gets alot less, but I have done extensive modding.

another tip, don't replace you're clutch for anything too heavy... the actual metal bar from the petal to the clutch will bend (literally) for some reason it was built really flimsy.

Japan has some serious bad acid raid, pair that up with the heavy salted air on the boat over - and you have a bad looking paint job.... meguiars has a 3 step system... pay attention here, i will save you a paint job. buy the first 2 steps of meguiars! the first one gets rid of oxidization (salt, grim and whatever shit that is stuck to the paint) my paint went from a grainy feeling to a smooth brand new feel... the second step "brings" out the colour, especially in black.
You'll notice right away, no matter how old the car is, that the hood will be very dull. It's due partly to the high heat the SRmotor emits. This will make it look brand new. I promise this to you man to man. I'm not a brand guy, but i swear meguiars is the best product for this i have ever used.... anyways. After you do this you'll want to wax it.... use any wax you desire, AVOID TURTLE WAX OR ANY CREAM BASED WAX. it is shit, end of story. Make sure it is a solid wax... it's way more work, but the outcome is 10x better. ... if you want a buffer to place the wax on - canadian tire had one for like 15$ sale price. I think it is 30-40$ regular vrs 50-80 for other ones. It doesn't make it any better, it just saves time putting it on.. on that topic, never use a buffer to take OFF wax, use a cloth. trust me.

Another thing you want to do, is check your AC. Pressure builds up and the seals go, hence crappy AC. it takes only 2 weeks for it to degrade in any vehicle new or used for the seals to start shitting out if it's not used at least once. Mine isn't too bad, but it could be alot better. Most JDMS don't have it working at all. Just something you might want to do one day - however you'll find that you'll need to replace the whole thing, as the seals are internal.

You'll want new headlight bulbs, HIDS are an option, but at 400$ not a reality for most. I personally use the Philips lamps... it's a super bright white, very nice to the dull yellow it came with. You'll find your bulb is a standard, and very common so grab any brand/look you please. You're looking at 50-70$ (plus tax)

IF you're ever cleaning under the hood make sure to cover your air intake, cap, and the box to the top right. Water in the air intake = no good.

A very common problem with the GTI-R is the support beam in the center roof... it often shits out, and detaches itself. You'll get a "hum" out of it at lower gears. It may lead to a full fledge rattle. It's easy to fix, but takes a ton of time to do....

Anyways, for whatever it is you are doing read the manual as it is very specific in take the car apart and back together again. Very helpful. http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/ is the link if your car didn't come with it.

For your suspension, if you can do it yourself - you'll only need to borrow/rent a spring compressor. The only time, I needed to go to a shop for anything was for a wheel alignment which is around 80$ for all 4 tires, and my oil change. You'll find it really satisfying to do the rest yourself.

Speaking of tires.... http://www.wheelsnext.com/ is a good site. free shipping. all car parts from the states are DUTY FREE.

I got a set of tires I was quoted at 1800$ here for 1000 after tax there. the site itself is not cheap, USA literally just gets tires&rims for HALF our cost. The site however offers free balancing and does nitrogen filling. IF you want to drive over and have them install it, then discount tire or Leschwab tire offer the same prices, but less selection. Check the site out for ideas, then shop around if you can get a better price.

For anything, never get something shipped from the states to canada, even if the shipping is free.... holding fees are not.

You're looking at 30% of the cost to hold an item... thats a ton of money. www.shiphappenssumas.com holds any item, no matter it size from 4 to 16 dollars canadian. however, this is located far west (BC AREA). P/O boxes are 40$ per YEAR... worth the investment.

I bought some 17x7 4x100 offset 40 and its all good. I bought them for fun cuz they were so cheap and in good shape with tires.

its nice to have a few set of shoes.

regarding wheel fitment I've heard that the offset is 35-45, any truth to that?
I'm looking at some wheels and found the following:
4x100, 15x7 +35
4x100/114.3, 15x6.5 +30
4x100, 15x7 +43

Nick, do you know if a 10mm spacer would be overkill on my 15 inch OZ? I know the width would fit fine with the fenders but would the stud be too short to be safe?

Also, what is a good place locally to find spacers?

FYI On the thread about the NX2000 rear disc conversion, adding 10mm extra results in needing longer studs.
Studs are cheap and easy to swap anyways.

15 x 8 0et