Alright... I've already posted the specs on this beast under the 'Saskatchewan' forum but here are a few pics so prove I'm not all BS. Here is what your looking at: Mike " The Bears" 620WHP (not crank hp) complete long block, Straight cut PPG dog box with quaife helical 5th geared out to hit 205 mph at 8000rmp, 4" thick intercooler, Hand made intake mani w/ JYG fuel rail and 1000CC injectors, annnndd of course my gutted shell of a car that is begging to be finished.
BTW has anyone ever tried this belt set up??? P/S and A/C delete: I turned the water pump pulley around so it lines up perfectly with the outer crank pulley then used a 40.5" 4 groove belt.
My project and goods
September 7, 2011 - 7:00pm
#1
My project and goods
Dude, get the samco hose kit and replace those hoses at the back. There's almost NO way to replace them with the engine in the car. I did mine last summer when I had my engine out. Glad I did too.
As for the water pump and alternator, they aren't run off the same pulley grooves on the crank pulley, but I trust you've already aligned them somehow?
RNN14
Yes, yes the samco hoses are on their way as we speak. I'm aware that they don't run off the same belt. I've gone from a 6 groove to a 4 groove on the larger crank pulley and flipped the water pump pulley around... It lines up pretty much perfectly with the outer crank pulley. In theory, this will work well at the total cost of a $22 belt... The only concern is putting the water pump into overdrive. I'll see if I can get away with it without the pump cavitating and if not no biggie I can always machine something up.
becarful of the water pump pull hitting the frame now. i no there isnt much room to begin with. just a thought
I'd go for an electric water pump if it were my build. The OE pump is known to work, not so well, at higher revs. I've had mine overheat in shorter, tight autocross courses where getting into 2nd is out of the question. Run the whole lap at the top of first gear and it gets hot!
I think the guy that made your gearbox collar makes a nice water pump block off plate...
Anthony Locke
Fastest Lap Motorsports
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or use the gspec water pump pulley.. pump cavitates at above 6000 rpm.. no water flow ...
Oh so many questions. Feel free to answer in any order, or not at all haha. I'm wanting to start a big build on mine or another gti-r some time in the next couple years. How much did that dogbox cost? Did you make that intake yourself, what size is the fuel rail? I'll think of more later right now im in awe of someone finally building a nasty fast gti-r. Is this gunna be the quickest in canada?
I think I'll take my chances with this one, if it doesn't work no big deal. I've had this car pretty much redlined for a good 15 mins without any problems overheating. Oil cooler, big rad with a high pressure cap...I'm not too worried. The g-spec pulley is the exact same size as stock so the only thing I would be gaining is a couple oz. of weight loss...I'll skip breakfast for $100 thanks.
Peg_Pulsar - I paid less than 1/2 price for the dog box if you were to buy it from PPG. I didn't make the manifold, a mechanic/welder made it up in the US. Only 2 ever made and both sold for $1400 a piece.....
u sure they're the water pump pulley's are the same size, u may be mistaking the crank pulley as the same size
I'm almost positive. If you find an underdrive water pump pulley send me the link.
Lets see some updates :D
1992 nissan pulsar gti-r Black sold/1993 red/rusty parts car /1990 nissan pulsar gtir fully built vet with to much jam
Sorry no new pics yet! I've just been doing some shopping around lately buying little bits a pieces. I have a FULL poly bush kit on its way along with rims, tires and hopefully an exhaust manifold. I'm thinking lovefab is my best bet considering the setup I'm running and you can't beat the price for an equal length with lifetime warranty... There are still so many things I have to buy before I get back on the road, it'll be at least another year before the gti-r is running. I still need: wastegate, exhaust, coilovers, big brake kit, ECU (and possibly a harness), ignition system, fuel cell and pump(s), rad, etc.., As you can see, big bucks and not enough bank!
Nick - You were right Gspec does make an underdrive water pump pulley
That belt setup is going to overdrive your waterpump like mad. a Big water pump pulley might bring it back near stock, but it will still cavitate. Running 2 belts isn't a big deal.
I'm not running p/s or a/c, the underdrive pulley will be fine
http://www.canadagtir.com/forums/technical/engine-performance/engine-pulleys
who wants to send me the specs on a custom manifold and ill get one made up at work
BOTTLES ARE FOR BABIES.. REAL MEN GET BLOWN
1992 nissan pulsar gti-r Black sold/1993 red/rusty parts car /1990 nissan pulsar gtir fully built vet with to much jam
Christmas arrived early...
Full Powerflex polyurethane bushing kit with Turbine Tech. buffer bars. Whiteline Anti-lift/Caster kit on the way
..........Anyone want to finish my wiring for me? hahaha
Wow...Nice Bushings!
Wiring looks terrifying.
2011 Canadian FIA Autoslalom Street Modified Class National Champion
www.facebook.com/TastefulMods
www.tastefulmods.com
I'll finish it but you wont like it....
Nice build, I've met Mike a few times before he emigrated and he said that his box and engine were going to Canada, now I can see where they've ended up. Just for your information the 620hp is at the fly, the engine was mapped on Simon Norris's engine dyno. Although the only reason they stopped at 620 was due to ignition issues, after switching to the coil on plug set up it was remapped for more boost but never went back on a dyno, but Mike told me he estimated the power to be around 680bhp on the high boost setting. The power was simpley limited by the GT30/40 turbo, knowing the strength of the engine there is no reason you could not strap a T51R to the side of it and make big numbers.
Are you planning on running a coil on plug set up like Mike or are you going back to a dizzy? Also a word of warning, I'd steer clear of Lovefab, the work they're churning out theses days is not of the same quality it used to be and the customer service is next to non-existant (have a look over on sr20-forum to see for yourself).
Thanks all, The wiring isn't actually too bad. 90% of what you see in that pic isn't going back into the car. I'm getting rid of basically everything that isn't absolutely needed. I have an M84 Motec on the way with a blank wiring harness so I`ll have to pull up the old pulsar schematic and tie everything in to the new ECU...
Makaveli - Good to see you on the Canadian forum your a legend over in the UK. Yes as you can see the engine and box made it over here. I heard about the ignition issues while he had the engine on the dyno so I`m not even going to bother with a dizzy, coil packs all the way. As for power output I`m not going to see full potential in this car for a good while, I`ll be running tops 1.5 bar for the first couple seasons until I start blowing shit up or decide to build bigger lol..... No worries about the manifold I`m getting one made as we speak at Weir Tech. Check out his Facebook page he`s posting his progress on my manifold almost daily.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Weir-Technologies-Inc/137961856274947
As for Mike.... Well if your still in contact with him, tell him to send me my money asap before I decide to pay him a visit.
Sorry, I've not spoken to Mike since he left for New Zealand. I think he's tried to have a completely fresh start as he was having a pretty shitty time of it. Bit shit if you've been left owed money though.
On a brighter note the welding looks top quality on those Weir Tech manifolds, what sort of flange are you going for? I've gone for an open T3 on mine. Although there are some people over here running big power on the standard ignition system I think you can never had too much spark.
Yeah Aaron Weir knows his stuff when it comes to making manifolds. The flange is a T3. I actually had to secure my turbo onto my old manifold by 1 bolt, take a shit load of measurements and send my old manifold to him to make up a jig. So if anyone is interested in getting a quality tubular manifold made up with either a T25/T28 or T3 flange he's the guy to talk to.... Oh did I mention he's doing all this for under $1000? Lovefab, Protech, Turbine Tech, Full Race, etc. can't even come close to this price for tubular with an external WG.
As for ignition, you right there really isn't such a thing as "too much spark"... I already have the block off plate at the end of the cam anyway so I'm going probably going for an M&W ignition sysetem.... Haven't decided yet tho.
I will have Weirtech do a manifold for me for sure when I go disco potato probably next fall.
The Motec arrived today :)
Let the wiring begin!!!
Weir Tech. Manifold, G-Spec underdrive water pump pulley and Turbosmart Pro-gate 50mm wastegate...
no concerns with wastegate heat with it that close?
Also, Where is everyone buying their full bushing kits from? I'd rather not have to go through the hassle of buying it one piece at a time if you can get it all in one shot. Plus I'm sure there would be a discount for the full order.
Nah I'm not too concerned. The manifold and turbine housing are being sent out for a ceramic coating plus the wastegate is going to be sitting about 1/2" away from my rad fans (or less) lol
I bought my bushings from a powerflex distributor in the US. I though the exact same thing, that there would be a 'package deal' if you bought every bushing they have to offer.... But nope! You get screwed and after shipping your looking at just over $900.
Lynx, Nolathane Bushings is a good alternative to Powerflex ($$$)
Nice build ryanking123, keep it up!
Hey Ryan, sorry I've not been able to sort out the splitter fot you. I'm in the process of moving garages which means everythings a bit up in the air. I was wondering if you've thought about using a 20V CAS instead of the trigger wheel? Its one of the things I'm thinking about with my set up as it just seems like a tidier solution.
Ryan,
Love where you're taking this. Keep up the great work!
ewaldperformance.com
Thanks all! Just so everyone gets an idea about how far I'm going with my R.... There's a Gallardo in Saskatoon and I plan on making a fool out of it.
Makaveli - No worries on the splitter the bumper won't be going on for at least another 6 months so whenever you get some spare time let me know. As for the CAS or as I call it CPS (crank positioning sensor)... I've considered it, but the engine already came with the tone ring and hall sensor ready to go so I just thought what the hell... I can see the CPS being a lot nicer as long as it wouldn't be too much of a pain in the ass to set up. I mean you can have tone ring internally on the crank, front or back, or on the flywheel. There really isn't a difference performance wise between the sensors and if your thinking of mounting it internally you have to take into consideration the probability of failure due to the excessive heat.
hey man looks sweet nice set up so far .....just looking at the manifold are you running a half rad looks like its way forward from stock with that wastegate in the front like that .....just wondering ! nice work so far cant wait to see numbers,dyno videos on this monster good luck ! cheers
Well the last time this engine was on a dyno it pushed 620hp at 1.8 bar. I'm giving it a better ignition system and a single throttle body intake mani (as seen in the pics above). Unfortunately it won't see its full potential for at least 3 years I plan on setting it up for Auto-X and 'detuning' it running approx. 1.2 bar. I'll see how the setup sits once then engine is in. I'm making up wiring harnesses right now for the Motec and the cab side of things, bench testing the engine, then I`ll get it in place and start figuring out how I`ll squash everything behind the front bumper.
Just a little more progress.... Fuel cell, Fuel pump and Battery are in place. Fuses below the Motec and relays above. Master kill switch on the RH side of the center console. Made up brackets for the Motec - pretty much the exact same brackets you can buy through Motec cost $140! WTF? Made these up in 30 mins at work for a total cost of: $0.00... Prepping the engine and trans to go back in soon after I give the engine bay a good cleaning.
full race setup !
1992 nissan pulsar gti-r Black sold/1993 red/rusty parts car /1990 nissan pulsar gtir fully built vet with to much jam
So much beautifull!
I wouldn't go that far and say it's FULL race.... maybe some day I'll: Seam weld the entire car, full roll cage, Lexan windows, get rid of the passenger seat, etc. The list is endless and this is just the beginning. Hahah my current set up isn't finished and I'm already pricing out a bigger engine build.
Update: Reenforced clutch fork, 2 piece strengthening collar, cleaned out the engine bay.
Before:
After!
Modified Strengthening collar from str_motorsport and an end brace made by myself... Total time: 2 1/2 hours to modify the collar, 4 1/2 hours to make the end brace with a total cost of $0.00. It might not be pretty but there`s no way it`ll let go.
Is the collar tiged to the case?
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
Nope its a 'press fit'... I spent a long time tapering the inside of the collar and getting every groove just right. When the brace is bolted down it squeezes the collar further onto the casing.
I've probably used an angle grinder well over 1000 times in my life without a scratch... Until last weekend - 46 stitches later. This is the result of a zip disc breaking, kicking out and landing on my stomach while I was underneath my R. FYI if anyone has bought the strengthening collar (1st version) from str_motorsport the forward tranny mount needs to be notched out in order to clear the brace.
1 week later I finally got that bitch in there...
Nice scar man. I just had a similar incident last week. Never had a problem with angel grinders, hit my hand after it skipped. luckily for me i had a wire bush on though., just left a lot of tiny stab wounds.
Props for finishing it so fast. That must have bled EVERYWHERE.
You are the man.
Wow, did they take your appendix out while they were in there? Sort of like a two for one sale!
Your engine bay looks incredible. It's too bad that you're so far from Ontario. Keep updating us with pics.
ewaldperformance.com
looks awesome man ,sucks that you took a grinder like that ,what are you going to run on it for engine management ! i just got done converting mine to rear wheel drive so i can tune it on my local two wheel mustang dyno .....yes i said that right RWD......lol ! it actually works !
Thanks all, its coming along slowly... Hopefully I'll have it running by the end of summer the only thing holding me back now is the lack of $$$.
Demongtir - Sorry to hear about the RWD conversion, you've ruined the the best feature about these cars.
ha ha ,i haven't ruined anything ,I've got a whole other drive train that is AWD and i converted a spare trans for RWD so i can run it on our local dyno ! the closest AWD dyno is 10-12 hours away so ive got local access to this RWD mustang dyno and i know several tuners that will help me tune the car on an AEM series 2 ! this way i can dial in the ecu on this dyno and then tweak the tune when i convert it back to AWD in the fall !!! seems like alot of work but i have my best friends shop to do all the work in for free !
I would have driven the 10 hours lol, much cheaper and far faster.
Haha agreed. I'm heading to Calgary to get my car dyno'ed which iis 6 hours away...... Might make it there in 3 though lol
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