Hi gang, I'm new here and looking for more insight and parts.
I have a 2015 Nissan micra and am thinking of shoe-horning a sr20det I'm there.
It has been done in Malaysia thailand and such.
The reason I'm here instead of other sr20 sites is because of the gtir s rear facing intake and fwd.
all the rwd models have front facing plenum and super long trans.
So right off the bat I'm looking at custom intake/exhaust manifolds, figuring out transmission mating, blow thru vs pull thru maf, clutch, throttle cable ( micra uses electric ) an several other issues.
I was originally thinking of keeping the hr16de and using a rotrex supercharger but I'd be spending almost as much as this and still only having 160hp
Mr16 juke swap is up that same alley. Lots of mods for 200hp maybe 250-300max
The sr20 seems to be relatively bullet proof up to around 375
But I'm just looking to make a solid 300-320 crank hp using stock internals
Gt2871r -4, z32 maf ( preferably blow thru ), 480cc inj ( maybe more but the inj match the maf, and the s15 can handle 300 so why not)
Ext-wg .
The turbo will be mounted longitudinally breathing air thru the grill, hotside blowing straight into the fmic, piping going up thru the micras stock ram air intake ( giving me at least 8" of straight piping to calm the air before it hits the maf then routed to the rear facing intake.
Possible wmi, maybe even a I/C sprayer.
Soooo... Any thoughts, Advice, or head shaking
From what I understand you want to build a rwd micra ?
Naw a fwd ... Guess I have to use just the longblock and make new mounts and intake/exhaust manis
Z32 MAF will be useless for your setup. People use them for 500hp+ setups.
Here we use N60/E60 MAF from 90's maxima for those kind of power.
Z32 maf and 480cc injector match well in Nistune .
I think I need a de short block from a fwd and a full det long block.
Transfer pistons and rods. And det head to de block.
= Fwd sr20det... Am I right? Just need to make turbo oil feed..
Probably a good time to replace bearings and rings
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Bluebird-U12-SR20DET-long-block-53J-1L-FWD-rare-good-/252512444941?nav=SEARCH
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-NISSAN-BLUEBIRD-U13-SR20DET-2-0L-DOHC-TURBO-ENGINE-MOTOR-ASSEMBLY-FWD-/222274298013?nav=SEARCH
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-93-NISSAN-b14-Sunny-Pulsar-GTIR-N14-SR20-DET-Turbo-MT-ENGINE-Clip-Halfcut-/201589763759?hash=item2eefafaeaf:g:q6sAAOSwFnFWDe1S&vxp=mtr
this is what i need
If your looking for a fwd block I have a few available if your looking for something to build up
1992 nissan pulsar gti-r Black sold/1993 red/rusty parts car /1990 nissan pulsar gtir fully built vet with to much jam
Nistune is getting old and is missing a lot of tuning options compared to today's standards. Get something better like Nismotronic or, even better, a standalone like AEM ems.
After that ditch the MAF and convert to speed density (MAP + IAT). Run directly on a wideband oxygen sensor for better fueling control.
If you can, I would also go E85 for fuel to keep intake temperature low
I was thinking AEM... I do t have reliable access to e85 so I'll probably be using shell 91vpower and wmi
Or tune for 94 with 15% ethanol
I was thinking of map vs maf cuz it's cleaner.
Actually after looking at it again the EMS-4 make a lot of sense since I'll likely bot have a harness ..
The thought of a refreshed engine and new wires and everything gives me peace of mind
Nismotronic have almost the same feature of the AEM ems but for half the price. Can run on E85 with it too.
http://www.nismotronic.com/product_info.php
Check it out before buying something. Features are interesting for a daughter board.
I think I settled on the Jdm SR20VET from an X-Trail, while using a p12 bellhousing and 2003 +maxima RS6F51H trans w/lsd
I just need to figure out axles and get it together and running.
Then I worry about increasing the hp.
Because of all the things I deleting or no using or changing it doesn't make sense to use the stock ecu or harness.
Still need to figure out the cable throttle vs electronic throttle .. And clutch engagement, electronic steering assist etc.
You don't have to worry about increasing HP on a sr20ve-t. Those engines are choked big time by the stock turbo and all you need to go near the 500hp figure are a tubular exhaust manifold with t3 flange, a turbo at least in the gt30 range and bigger injectors. The block internals are also really close to the gti-r crank and rods so no problems there.
Yah I've been seeing ppl put on gt40's and running 700+ rwhp on stock internals @9k rpm...
And the maxima trans is as bullet proof as they come ... Apparently ...
My cars light an fwd and my daily... So I'm after reliability first power second.
Fun / but not a total gas pig.. That 6sp should help. Quick for 1,2,3 cruise for 4,5,6...
I figure the stock gt2560r. ( gt28r )should be good for 320hp at 15 or so psi.
On the xtrail it's set to 10psi till 4000 or so rpm then drops to 6psi to redline . So that 276hp at 6400rpm
Is at 6psi... Add 5 more 3000-4000, and 9more 4k-7500rpm.
@6400>( 276 X 5252 )/ 6400 = 226.5tq
Add boost > increase rev limit 7500
With no increase to tq the new hp would be
(226.5 x 7500)/ 5252 = 324.3 hp
With 10 more tq
(236.5 x 7500)/ 5252 = 337.7 hp
So call it 240ft lbs tq 3000-7000
240x3000/5252= 137hp
240x7000/5252= 320hp
My estimates and forza4 simulation have tq closer to 260ft lbs .
So i think that's actually conservative
320-340 bhp 7-7.5k
240-260ft-lbs tq 3-7k
No you don't understand. That stock turbo lose boost on higher rpm because the exhaust housing is choking. Giving it more boost or making the engine rev higher won't solve the problem.
The exhaust housing or exhaust manifold is restrictive?
The compressor map says it should be fine .. So I'll swap the exhaust turbine housing for a larger one.
Compressor side is OK. Exhaust housing is restrictive and the t2 flange of the exhaust manifold help nothing. It's a small turbo made for low-end torque.