Who's running what for plug wires? Right now I'm running MSD 8.8's built from a set of left-overs from a Chev truck. They actually don't seem to work as well as the old stockers I had on it....
Been looking around for Splitfires, as I had good results from their coils in the GTR. Can a guy use MSD's for a Talon/Eclipse in order to get the proper boots? My ignition breaks up bad if I use a Drive-thru car wash as the plug bores fill with water....
I have Worxspec and they seem great:
http://rallynuts.com/motorsport/Tuning_1982/Worxspec_Ignition_Lead_Set_Nissan_SunnyPulsar_GTiR_1959.asp
2011 Canadian FIA Autoslalom Street Modified Class National Champion
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oem p10 wires here
here's a question:
why sometimes when I gun it, does it seem to burp or break up between 3-5k and then be solid to redline? I haven't touched anything on the ignition since I got it aside from new pfr7b-11 spark plugs. (I think that's the part number).
RNN14
^^^ I just started having a similar trouble since last night. Only change, lower boost through use of AVC-R boost controller???
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Just ordered a set of the Worxspec's. Thanks modform for the tip!
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
i use worxspec too and pretty happy
in winter you can use warmer sparkplug if you want to ..
No problem.
2011 Canadian FIA Autoslalom Street Modified Class National Champion
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My car does the exact same thing I have my suspicions about the fuel pump being too weak but not sure
Guaranteed to put a smile on the front of your head!
I doubt mine is weak since it was replaced last year with a walbro item. The car is imitating similar symptoms as it did last time when the plugs were gone. I swapped in some platinum ones and they sorted out the problem, but I didnt think they'd only take 13k to start fouling again.
New wires, worxspec ones look good.
RNN14
nick, how much were these?
RNN14
I think I had multiple boost leaks. Not big ones, but enough that I could tell where they were. Now, I have all the leaks sorted, I am starting to think that I am blowing the spark down. Car revs with boost set to 0.6kg/cm^2, but 0.8 and up, breaks up bad at aroun 4K rpm. I am running BCPR7EIX, heat range 7, iridiums with a 0.8 gap. I think they are done too, so I will be replacing them tomorrow, with a .28-.26mm gap and see what goes down!!
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
I haven't ever changed mine, but i think they are just the stock ones. It still seems to run good, ever since it got fixed, still super fun, still super fast.
sorry no idea on the price of the wires, it's been well over 2yrs ago since i bought them probably around 80$ is my guess. i've had no problems with mine, oem p10 wires with ngk bkreix8's (iridium's) at the gap they come out of the box. i run at 16psi, mines computer, fujitsubo exhaust, 3 inch test pipe, am performance divorced down pipe, sheepdog blow off valve recirc'd, k&n cone, catch can vented to air.
Nick, I'd like to see pics of your catch can setup. I am building myself one, and kind of curious on how to route the lines. My GTR was easy, one line from the left breather to the right side, then one line to the tank. Plug the PCV and done. This SR seems to have an air/oil separator, a PCV, and a line to the intake. The "T" between the intake and the separator has me confused a little...
That may also be why you've had no issues with the plugs you mentioned. I just put in some NGK coppers as a test and the car runs right through the revs all the way, at 1.2 bar, with no issues. I am running a tighter gap, but no more hiccups non-the-less. The old plugs were fouled out. I am going to try another set of Irid's, but if they foul, I'm going copper here on in!! The GTR ate plugs too, but the leanest it ran was 13.5:1AFR. I had threatened to try RX7 style surface gap plugs one too....
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Removed the hose running from the T on the distributor side to the intake pipe.
Plug the nipple on the intake pipe.
Ran a new hose from the t on the valvecover on the distributor side to a catch can and vented the catch can to air with a small kn filter. The oem computer also runs uber rich if you do a 1bar loop, basically anything above stock psi the oem computer is not ideal even tho it can handle it.
Read this article http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46637 micra ed explains a few things... basically a/f is in the 10's above .8 bar
wingnut, what part number did you get for the plugs? $80 for Platinums is too much for me right now!
RNN14
These were NGK V-power. Said: R5671A-7 on the box. Fits 300ZX turbo, Skyline ect.. Just got a set of Irid's as backups as I did not expect them to be in for a few days, NGK BKR8EIX's.
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Oh man! Worxspec's showed up today!! I was not expecting them for a week or two. I'll go put them on here shortly!!
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Welcome to the world of mass misfires...
Cap and rotor, on order...
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Do inifiniti g20 plug wires work?
same. p10 chassis = g20 model
Noticed anything "funny" with the exchange rates and parts prices lately:
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On P1 I'm using NGK BKR7E plugs (summer) with red "Ultra" 8mm leads (some JDM brand I assume? They were on P2 so I swapped them hehe)
On P2 I'm using NGK BKR6E plugs (winter) or BKR7E (summer) with NGK leads for NX2000/G20 http://performance.importrp.com/ngk/ngk_spark_plug_wires_oem_set/nx07/i-145129.aspx
I am using Accel 10mm's. They have worked great and they are a set I pulled off my old 200SX.
My car won't idle right right now, they are the BKR6E one's, changing gap seemed to change it quite a bit, but i still couldn't get it to idle quite right. Should i be running the BKR7E in the summer?
i run the bkr7e plugs year round now since i improved the cooling on my car, no need for 8's :). but i live in vancouver so i can see how u can get away with 6's in winter. oem wires are fine.
don't ignore the cap rotor and fuel filter too :).. u'd be surprised how much those 2 items help.
also adding a heat sink to the power transistor helps as well.
http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/diagrams/power_transistor
i simply took an old ecu heat sink (not my idea, copied from one of the gtir forums), drilled a couple holes in it and mounted the transistor to it with some heat sink paste and mounted it away from the motor. i used to get stuttering and power loss when i got the car really hot, like 100-120c oil temps climbing mountains. doesn't happen anymore.
Yep cap and rotor have been changed and also the fuel filter, both within 10k. So i'm thinking i'll be getting these bkr7e's and see what happens with that. btw its a like pop and miss type of rough idle, every few seconds it will miss and studder so the rpm kinda bounces around. I just recently pulled the motor and put it back in so hopefully its not me missing something that needed to be plugged back in :/
i'd clean ur maf, check the clip and harness, reground it too just for sanity
if u have a consult cable i'd plug it in to check out the maf voltage, the iacv/aac %, and if the 02 sensor is generating voltage, flipping back n forth.
also doesn't hurt to double check u've properly burped the coolant system
My consult cable didn't work. it gave me some error message last year. i'll try it again some time and tell you what it says. How do you go about cleaning your maf, i've heard they're easy to mess up.
i just picked up electrical parts cleaner from can tire, i think u can get crc maf cleaner too. i just remove the maf, wet it down lightly with some spray from some distance away and let it dry. i use this consult cable http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx however the aussie can exchange isn't that favorable anymore.
Ok, one more quesiton about plugs. There are BKR7EIX, the ones it seems i need to be getting. There are also BPR7EIX. I've found out on other forums that these are 2.5 mm taller than the BKR's. and that since the plug wire length is fixed the BKR7EIX apparently is too short...? Will 2.5 mm really make a difference, since i have BKR6E's in right now and i just push till i feel the wire kinda plug in... Is this something that actually worth worrying about, or can i go with either plug?
ngk 4644 plugs at 12 psi work pretty good for me. and the gap at 25. does any body have a part number for some good wires? my car is going into an over boost for half a second and then strong to red line.
I have always used Magnecor 8,5mm plug wires and have been great for ages. I am still using them with my LS1 coils on my new engine.One thing I would suggest is to check fuel pump wiring. A drop in voltage to the pump is a commont fault, so when running the pump gradually receives rells current. This makes the engine run lean and the ECU senses DET and switches to the DET map, which uses less timing and more fuel, making the car running crap till 5000 rpm or so.I would suggest using the ]12v wire to the pump as a realy trigger, and to fit a new realy to feed the pump, all helped by a decent sized wire from battery to relay and from relay to pum
I have always used Magnecor 8,5mm plug wires and have been great for ages. I am still using them with my LS1 coils on my new engine.One thing I would suggest is to check fuel pump wiring. A drop in voltage to the pump is a commont fault, so when running the pump gradually receives rells current. This makes the engine run lean and the ECU senses DET and switches to the DET map, which uses less timing and more fuel, making the car running crap till 5000 rpm or so.I would suggest using the ]12v wire to the pump as a realy trigger, and to fit a new realy to feed the pump, all helped by a decent sized wire from battery to relay and from relay to pum
I finally changed the wirers, the car runs strrong from stop to red line.
What year g20 are wires
Must be 1991 to 1993 highport version. Later versions used a built in ignitor and coil in the distributor
Last time I ordered a OEM wire set at the dealer. They work great and cost around the same as the aftermarket parts, same for cap and rotor.