I finally got around to installing a delay timer. This is the kit I bought. http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=525050 It took me about half an hour to solder the board and the instructions and resistor codes and kit were all very easy and well thought out. It worked the first time I wired it up! Anyway. You will need to buy some wires as the board needs 6 leads; One 12V supply, one ground, two for the included switch and two for the door switch interupt/patch. This kit basically sits between the 12V supply and the door switch. I used the driver side door. DUH! The toughest part for me was placing the box (you will need to buy a box). I ended up plopping it under the driver's seat without attaching it. None of the leads are bare. I cut the insulation/lead so that the bare wire is only inside the box and drilled 6 holes to fit the insulated wires through the lid. I took off the sill plate, pulled back the carpet, opened the wire conduit, peeled off the grey edge trim and pryed the right side passenger interior panel. There are a couple of grounding screws already there, Yippeee! You do not have to remove the door light switch. Just slice open the wire cover and find the 12V supply to the switch. Green and Red. If you want, you can use a multimeter, remove the switch and find the 12V supply yourself (I did) and it only takes 2 minutes. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! (easy for me because I relocated into the trunk, hells YEAH!). Cut the 12V supply, attach one wire to what is now the 12V supply end and attach another to what is now the switch end (I used butt connectors because I didn't trust my soldering inside the car). I ran the ground and these two wires through the wire conduit, under the carpet and out under the seat. The switch (it is small) is mounted to the right of the steering wheel, low under the coin holder, away from the fuses. The two wires from the switch I ran under the interior trim part (I removed and replaced) and again through the wire conduit to the same place under the seat. If you were paying attention you'd have noticed that I now only have 5 wires under the seat. I need one more, the dedicated 12V supply to power the board. I was a little lazy so I branched off the switch 12V with a short lead. I connected it up and everything worked...sort of. The delay timer is insane, it took me a lot of fiddling around with the delay to get it to a decent 5-8 seconds. Then I spent another hour opening and shutting the door to make sure it went off (no dead batteries for me thank you). After that was setteled I sealed the box and cracked a self-congradulatory beer. It was then that I noticed the light, when run through the delay, was only half bright, or dim, whatever. It may be because I branced off the 12V switch. I don't know, but I'm happy with it now. Oh, and the freaking switch turns the lights on but they will not turn off. So that one's a half win, or lose, whatever. Happy soldering~!~ PS: this is the box I used. Multipurpose with card guides: Ice Blue, Crystal Clear & IR Red Translucent Polycarbonate (1591 "T" Series) http://www.hammondmfg.com/scpg.htm . I used the blue one and the hobby board fit inside the guides with and extra wood insert.