fan control lights group buy?

are these the bulbs that light up the door position indicators?  (eg dash, feet, defrost, bi-level, etc)

i'd also be interested in the bulbs that light up the heater switch,  but im not sure which size they are

Yeah my little symbols don't light up either.  I have to flick on my interior light at night when I want to change the setting lol.  Are they supposed to light up?

im not referring to the green led that marks which one is active

i mean the bulbs that light up the actual symbols themselves for defrost, feet, face, etc

^^ for the above, i believe it is two bulbs and a light plate (plastic that transfers the light to each hvac button's symbol)

AND

 i also want the bulbs that light up the defrost symbol and the hazard light symbol on the buttons

but im not sure what size ^^  these are

PS the link to the gtiroz is for members only

ive signed up but have to wait for validation

yeah, gotcha.

i just hope you are 100% sure the ones you spec'd out are a match for the hvac unit ;)

only reason I mention that is because i've bought some led neo-wedges before, and the depth (or thickness you could say) of the "locking tabs" did not match the circuit board, even though the socket & bulb were the proper width and depth.

so even though they dropped in, they wouldnt lock into place

anyway, let me get back to you by the end of the week if/when i figure out which exact neowedge bulb i need for the defroster switch

thx!

CanadianR - 3x NEO3-WHP - for fan/hvac control unit. (3x$2.29=$6.87)
Lynx      - 3x NEO3-BHP, both bulbs for rear defrost and 4 ways.
spd-dmn   - oops, cancel my order please!

CanadianR - 3x NEO3-WHP - for fan/hvac control unit. (3x$2.29=$6.87)
Lynx - 3x NEO3-BHP, both bulbs for rear defrost and 4 ways.
spd-dmn - 6x NEO3-WHP
GTIR DONE - 3x NEO3-WHP
Benno - 3x NEO3-WHP

do u mind posting the article, not everyone here belongs to that forum or can sign up kuz they're hitler's about where you live

would be helpful!

canadianR wrote:

spd-dmn - The lights I am talking about are the ones that light the unit up as in this picture:

[IMG]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c62/jeddeh/12finallit.jpg[/IMG]
They are not the green lights that light up under defrost if defrost is selected.

Here is a thread describing the lighting issue:
http://forum.gtiroz.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7234

Credit for finding the website and name/make of the lights goes to Hilary S_W.

As for the triple gauge (Oil temp, pressure and boost) --> For the oil temp, oil pressure and boost I used 74-R mini wedge bases from SuperBrightLeds.com. They fit perfectly but I spread the wires slightly as they looked a bit closer together than the contacts in the base. They cost $1.19 US each. 74-B is blue and 74-W white.

I don't know what our chances will be of any volume-rated discount. The benefit to us all buying at once, is that we can all get what we need as well as we will be over the minimum order of $25. We will probably end up getting all orders sent to one address in Canada. That person can then repackage everybody's orders and send them out. I can be that person unless anybody objects.

I'll start the list:

CanadianR - 3x NEO3-WHP - for fan/hvac control unit. (3x$2.29=$6.87).

This 'How to' is about replacing the 3 globes in the climate control module with LEDs. These globes will illuminate the air direction and recirc buttons, Temperature gradient and fan control. 
You will need - 3x White LED 3mm $1.95 each - I got these from jaycar but any electronic store. I chose 3mm as it is a similar size to the globe. - 3x Resistors 270-300 Ohm $0.30 for a packet of 6 - A small piece of wire. 
- Tools to remove the the centre console, i.e. screwdriver … - Side cutters (wire cutters or diag's) - Soldering Iron, Solder, I also use a PCB holder/ alligator clips to hold the components whilst soldering 

Step 1 - Removing Climate Control module You will be essentially removing the centre console to get access to this unit. Easiest to follow the Manual but the brief steps are. - Remove the gear stick panel from the centre console. This should clip out - Unscrew the 2 bolts on each side of the centre console panels underneath the gearstick. - Remove the 2 screws underneath the ash tray and remove the centre console/dash cover. You will need to unclip the wiring on the Hazard and rear demister button and the cigarette lighter. 
You should now see the 4 screws holding the climate control unit in place. 2 of these should also be securing the stereo. As this unit is secured behind and in front of the console surround. I found it easier to remove all screws holding in the console gauges and stereo so I could 'flex' the unit of out its place. 
Remove the plugs at the rear and unclip the temperature control tube from the heater/cooler box. Recommended whilst you have access to this tube look at the temperature sensor and clean if necessary. 
Step 2 - Getting access to the globes You should now have the unit separate and as per picture 1. 
The unit will come apart quite easily, it is mostly snap fittings and 4 small screws. 1. Remove the fan control knob 2. There are 3 snap fittings holding the fan control unit in place. Use a screw driver (jewelers or small) to prise them, one at a time. 3. Remove the 4 screws. 4. Remove the rest of the unit. As in the 2nd picture the air selection buttons and A/C temperature slide will come out as 1 piece. I found it easier to unclip the buttons on the front first so that the unit slid out easier. 5. Remove the globes from the back of the board.

Attachments:File comment: The control Unit Removed
01 The Unit.jpg [ 36.26 KiB | Viewed 493 times ] File comment: The unit disassembledApologies for the picture the joys of low light and a 50mm primeStep 3 - Replacing the globes with LED's 
Side step - You can skip this bit if you want Replacing globes with LEDs is a fairly simple task, the main differences are LED is directional with voltage where as light globes are not i.e. it will only work if you install it the correct way. ALso, the LED's Operational voltage is 3.5V , whereas the globes accept 12.0V. 
Therefore we are required to place a resistor before the LED to limit the voltage supply to the LED. The LED's I used require a Nominal voltage of 3.5V, leaving us 8.5V to be 'consumed' by the resistor at 30milli amps, which will require a resistance ~282 Ohms. (I got the LED specs from the the Jaycar catalogue) The nearest size was 270 Ohms hence why I have issued that, /End Side step 
The resistor needs to be soldered onto the Positive End of the LED. This is the longest leg. Do one at a time 1. Remove the original globe 2. Put the LED in through the holes, and I adjust the height of the LED to match that of the globe (see pictures). 3. The negative leg of the LED I bend at 90 degrees to suit the recess in the globe holder. 4. Cut the positive leg leaving ~10-15mm exposed. I left about the length of resistor. 5. Cut one of the resistor wires to suit. 6. Solder the resistor and LED together (pic) 7. Bend the resistor over and cut other leg to suit the globe holder. 
fiddly bit 8. I used a piece of wire to wind around the resistor leg to the globe holder, and the LED leg to the globe holder. I found that the thickness of the resistor and LED wire was too thick to mount the holder on the PCB. Hence why I used the wire, wrap it around a couple of times as per the picture. 
9. Repeat for the other 2 globe holders. I have attached a picture showing my final 3 LEDs globes.

Attachments:
03 Resistor on LED leg.jpg [ 101.45 KiB | Viewed 489 times ] 
04 Resistor LED ready to solder.jpg [ 36.88 KiB | Viewed 489 times ] 
Step 4 - Mount LEDs & Test As said above in the 'ignore' section the LEDs are directional so they will only go one way. Look at the picture and I have put a white dot on the PCB trace that is negative, the non resistor leg should be contacting these pads. 
Also note that there is 1 large holder (black) holder and 2 smaller holders (blue) the picture shows the orientation. 
Even though I am correct in my orientation, it always pays to check you work before continuing. I would highly recommend that you plug the PCB back into the loom and turn on your dash lights. All LEDs should be lit. IF they are not check your soldering and fitment. 
If it has worked I would put some heat shrink over the resistors as per my picture. You will need to bend the resistors down parallel to the PCB board to make it fit when you reassemble the unit.

Attachments:
06 LED Unit assembled.jpg [ 34.91 KiB | Viewed 483 times ] 
09 Mounted on the Board Whit Dots.jpg [ 81 KiB | Viewed 484 times ] 

CanadianR - 3x NEO3-WHP - for fan/hvac control unit. (3x$2.29=$6.87)
Lynx - 3x NEO3-BHP, both bulbs for rear defrost and 4 ways.
spd-dmn - 6x NEO3-WHP
GTIR DONE - 3x NEO3-WHP
Benno - 3x NEO3-WHP
AtomicGTiR - 3x NEO3-RHP(Red), 3x 74-R(Red), + both bulbs for Rear defrost and 4 ways.

----

okay, im an idiot lol

all this led talk got me to dig through my old S13 240sx stuff

and i actually found six T3 neo-wedge led's that i had kicking around

and a tall neo-wedge incandescent bulb, that i pulled out of an s13 hvac panel

so cancel my order please. sorry for any inconvenience.

here is a pic i took to show the relative sizing

the coin is a dime

left: incandescent tall neo-wedge  ---  center: incandescent neo-wedge ---  right: led neo-wedge
[img]http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5714/neowedgeleds.jpg[/img]

the led is about 1 mm taller than the incandescent

they were a bit of a pain to install because the plastic tabs on the led's base are not a perfect fit for the defroster buttons

but with a bit of a cajoling i got them to work, and now my defroster and fog light switches light up!

i will tackle the hvac at a later time and report on my progress

How would the group buy work I'd be in for it but I'm in victoria bc though

CanadianR - 3x NEO3-WHP - for fan/hvac control unit. (3x$2.29=$6.87)
Lynx - 3x NEO3-RHP, both bulbs for rear defrost and 4 ways,1 x 3022-WWHP4, 1 x 3710-RHP, 3 x 674-BHP
spd-dmn - 6x NEO3-WHP
GTIR DONE - 3x NEO3-WHP
Benno - 3x NEO3-WHP
AtomicGTiR - 3x NEO3-RHP(Red), 3x 74-R(Red), + both bulbs for Rear defrost and 4 ways.

update:

so i got to the hvac install but i only did the top bulb because i was short on time

heres how it looks

[img]http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/628/hvac.jpg[/img]

canadianR wrote:

spd-dmn, do you have any pictures of the work in process of those mods for the hazard switch and rear defrost and fog lights?

I am still waiting on the reply from hilary_sw on the oz owners site.

i didn't take pics, sorry, but it's very easy. 

i'll make a writeup instead:

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[b]STEP 1:[/b] loosen and remove the center console trim/surround, just enough so you can get your hand behind the switches

-

[b]STEP2 (optional):[/b] disconnect the plugs for each switch to give you some slack for step 3

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[b]STEP 3:[/b] pop the switches out from behind the console trim. there are little tabs at each side which need to be compressed. the switches come out forward, aka symbol-side first, (aka toward the rear of the car)

You will see plastic screw-tops at the top of each switch. these are the bulbs. hazard switch has 1, defrost and fog have 2 each (one is for the symbol backlighting, one is the on/off indicator)

-

[b]STEP 4:[/b] using a flat head or suitable tool, turn the bulbs anti-clockwise and pull them out. 

note: they may need some "assistance" coming out. use two thin picks (one on each side) to gently and evenly pry out the bulb. do not use too much leverage or you will damage either the bulb or the circuit board. 

-

[b]STEP 5:[/b] insert the LED replacement bulb. turn clockwise to lock.

note: in my experience, these are not a perfect fit! they will take a bit of coaxing to get in there. and a bit more coaxing to lock them in. BE PATIENT and be gentle.

-

[b]STEP 6:[/b] plug in the connectors and [b]TEST[/b] to make sure the lights work before you reassemble everything

for me it took a few attempts of adjusting, turning lights on to check, re-adjusting, etc. 

-

[b]MOST IMPORTANT NOTE:[/b] LEDs are polarity sensitive. this means they will only work "one way".

if the bulb does not light up no matter how many times you try to lock it in, remove and rotate the bulb 180 degrees. reinsert and try to lock it again.

to help keep track of which side is which, you can make a mark on one side of the bulb holder (ie the plastic "screw-top" that holds the actual LED diode). this way you know 100% that you've rotated it.

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It is always good to use wholesale LED lights instead of the normal lights that is being offered in the market.For which it has great attributes that is good for the environment and it saves a lot.